Friday 19th January

| BY Natalie Dembinska

Berluti: Menswear AW18

Your immediate thought whenever you see a Berluti collection is always Lucky Bitches. The French and Sauders, Joan and Jackie Collins sketch. Not for the Joan and Jackie look of excess, animal print fabulosity, but for the wealth. Berluti is wealth. And fabulosity for that matter, but it just screams money. Whispers actually. Screaming is vulgar and Berluti is anything but. To quote Haider Ackermann, “In a world that is louder than ever, I like the idea of a quiet man. Serene, cool, collected, yet standing on his own two feet”. This was exactly that, pared back and minimal. There was nothing to distract here. Think of it as an outline of clothing in a way. All streamlined silhouettes without embellishment. The cut and fabrics left alone, with minimal interference, to speak for themselves. At its essence it’s a classic collection of separates, but with that sense of Haider wanderlust permeating through. Buttery leathers and soft cashmeres sit next to each other creating an illusion of being cocooned in warmth. What sets it apart is the craftsmanship; nylon jackets are made from a single piece of fabric, and so are seamless, coats are reversible- who doesn’t love a two for the price of one deal?- shoulders are rounded, softening the silhouette. This is luxury, but not as we know it. This is a new luxury for a new age.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans

www.berluti.com