Berluti: Menswear SS18
“Modern luxury” is Garth’s verdict. Which seems about on the money. We’re programmed to expect next level beauty from Haider Ackermann, and this evening he giveth us just that via his sophomore collection for the house of Berluti, which, safe to say was a success. What struck, like Mr Spencer said, was the sheer luxury of it all. The quality. I know on paper that sounds like quite a dull thing to say about a collection, but it’s really not, not when you see it up close. Take, for example, the sheer perfection of the overcoat worn by Ms Stella Tennant (and her matching boy toy) – a leather fantasy so perfect it made me consider a little bar job for some extra income.
There was an ease to this. Trousers were cut slim, but they still had a fluidity to them, flaring slightly towards the ankle, whilst knitwear was super lightweight and rolled-up on the sleeve. Also rolled up on the sleeve were the incredible bomber jackets – obsessed with the one in grey suede. And, amongst the luxury, the collection was shot through with a kind of normality. Like those leather sliders. Clothes at once recognisable, but here re-rendered in the most incredible luxury – at Berluti, Haider is offering a new kind of fantasy.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans