Best of 2017: Ten Looks From Martine Rose’s Autumn 2017 Breakthrough
Stop the press: fashion tram smash in north London leaves future bank balances reduced and wardrobes bulging. Imagine the headlines for what was probably – actually, definitely – Martine Rose’s best ever show. It was like when, in recognition of your previous viewing, YouTube’s “suggested content” plays The Human League. Asym-bobbed Phil Oakey-alikes in super-shiny pleat-front trousers and ties tucked in the top of them. Not that Oakey would have worn ties like these; his were slimmer. These were like Oakey’s dad’s ties. Or your dad’s mate who sat on the committee at the local working men’s club. Completely ace, though. The grey pinstripe jacket has all the promise of being “most shot” by magazines. And the sportswear-meets-working-man thing is one of the coolest things you’ll wear all season. But what does it all mean? Well, for now and possibly the next two seasons, the “#awks theory” of dressing reigns – namely, throwing things on that don’t look like they’re meant to be worn together. Sportswear and suiting: are you mad? Of course, but bringing together normally separate wardrobes, separate worlds, is always the start of a new fashion proposition. Please note, there was not one pair of shoes in this show. Not one. All trainers.
Photographs courtesy of Martine Rose