Sunday 30th April

| BY Natalie Dembinska

Kenzo: The Collection


There was mention, at Kenzo, of New York and its club scene in the 1990s. It was a sort of nostalgia for the days of James St James and special K, which for some reason made me think of a friend of mine from California, because why not veer off subject when you can? Like Carol and Humberto, my friend attended Berkeley and liked to club in the ’90s, but probably unlike them, in her desire for special K, she would drive down to Mexico at the weekend to buy her own horse tranquilliser, which she’d then bake at home. Obviously, Kenzo’s show was not a celebration of certain letters of the alphabet, nor an endorsement for sampling them. It was sporty clubwear at its nylon, wipe-down best. Trousers were worn high, creating an illusion of awkward, flappy-cuff shortness; nylon anoraks were slightly square, with large, squarer pockets on the front, at nipple-tassel height; orthopaedic granny sandals were paired with socks – not any sort of special sock, mind, just your average, back-of-the-drawer-type pair; and caps were worn backwards, à la Samuel L Jackson, and can you get a more ’90s reference than that? Think of this as techno ’hood rats who have somehow, in their mild delirium, confused Washington Square Park for a field. Sounds like fun.

Taken from Issue 45 of 10 Men, FLUID UNIQUE BRAVE, on newsstands now… 

Photographers Luke & Nik
Fashion Editor Will Johns