Maison Margiela: Ready-To-Wear AW19
In his now customary podcast, broadcast ahead of the Maison Margiela show, John Galliano talked (in fabulously fruity vowels), of how the digital decadence in which we are immersed, was prompting a search for authenticity. Those ideas, first explored in his couture show, fed into the house’s ready-to-wear with Galliano seeking to show the essence of a garment through a focus on silhouette. That meant great tailoring in classic menswear fabrics (herringbone, flannel, Harris Tweed and cavalry twill). The roomy cuts were non-binary and worn beautifully by boys and girls in this show. The results were utterly invigorating.
Galliano presented a great, genderless wardrobe, full of expertly cut future classics. If you are looking to buy a new coat next season we strongly advise you to shop here. Powerful shoulders, double breasted shapes, faux leather trench coats with decortiqué hems, and mannish overcoats scored with tailor’s traditional white marking stitches were amongst the highlights. The prints – digitally manipulated pink flamingos provided the only splash of colour. Tailoring and a return to sartorial elegance is the big fashion story of the season. A collective sharpening up is happening across fashion capitals and Galliano, a master of cut, is leading the way.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.