Saturday 23rd July

| BY Jack Moss

Martine Rose: SS17 Menswear

Martine Rose is very nice person. Not that this has anything to do with the collection in question – but I just thought it was mentioning. The clothes are nice too, although nice is really the wrong word, so let’s say cool, but that’s wrong too, so let’s just go with great. Martine is great. The collection is great. Apparently, or so we’ve read, this was all about second-hand clothes – “old clothes command new owners,” said the slogan that accompanied – Martine looking at the ways that garments change meanings when they are passed from person to person, place to place. Like the football kit, which here becomes jumbled as it loses the signifiers of team and country, the badges turned inwards, the colours changed. Martine has always been at her best when she plays with proportion, like she does here, the silhouette top or bottom heavy – big bulky trousers (which she championed pretty much before anyone else) or the oversized painters shirts, mixed up with slim python trous, or those short shorts, revealing the model’s skinny legs. Martine’s been in and out the calendar proper for a while (she had a baby last year) so we are all very happy to have her back. Hoorah for Ms Rose!