Saint Laurent At The Palladium: AW16 Menswear
Last night we gave you a teaser – now here’s the full shebang from last night’s Saint Laurent extravaganza at the Palladium in Los Angeles. There was menswear. And some womenswear....
Last night we gave you a teaser – now here’s the full shebang from last night’s Saint Laurent extravaganza at the Palladium in Los Angeles. There was menswear. And some womenswear....
Let’s just say that we’re very much a “yes” to any show that includes a thigh-high lace-up boot in its opening look. Spesh when it’s for men. Feels like something the...
“Love a bear moment,” or so our dearly departed Editorial Director Mr Miles may have heard calling up from his basement lair. So, as if in a form of translatlantic goodbye, Michael Kors...
We’re thinking of school boys when we look at Tommy Hilfiger’s latest men’s collection. But not like boy boys. Sixth formers. Sixth form boys when you are in year eleven....
Mass foil fashion moment at Calvin Klein’s Eveningwear Capsule collection, shown in New York yesterday. For what says eveningwear more than a pair of gold foil trousers? A bit like being clad...
Public School’s collection was inspired by Bowie’s Man Who Fell To Earth, in which the shape-shifting icon plays an extra-terrestrial hunting the earth for water to ship back to his...
Where else to descend to on a Monday morning than into Hood By Air’s smoke-filled, post-apocalyptic lair? Let’s be honest, it’s how we’re all feeling. Sunlight hurts our...
A besuited dour duo yanked dust sheets off regency gilt frames, armchairs and a crystal chandelier as the opening act to a Thom Browne show that took memory as its central theme. We don’t mean...
Red and yellow and pink and green, purple and orange and blue. We haven’t totally cracked due to fashion week fatigue: we’re just dissecting the prism of colours crammed into the Paul...
Lucas Ossendrijver has been at Lanvin for a decade: was there a party atmosphere, then, for his autumn/winter show? More of an intimate gathering of friends. Intimacy was the emotion he sought to...
Gender-free dressing is fashion’s current favourite topic – and it’s one Wooyoungmi tackled with aplomb. They were inspired by a garden – after all, a garden is no genders and...
We wound up thinking of Arte Povera – the poor looking art movement – while watching the Acne Studios presentation. We’re clever like that, see, and Acne’s use of buttons as...
Hermès, oh Hermès. Let us count the ways we love you. We love your cashmere, extra thick, in great colours like turquoise and big fat juicy raspberry pink. We love you printed silks, wrapped around...
Balmain’s army aren’t that great at camouflage. Well, they’re not unless you’re trapped in a giant glitter ball. Or a chandelier factory. Or the Swarovski HQ in glittery, shimmery...
Looking back without nostalgia. That was the challenge Kris Van Assche set himself at Dior Homme – plus the added pressure of translating whatever that would look like into clothing. He settled...
The Japanese word for “Love” is super close to the Japanese word for “Life”. That translation inspired Chitose Abe’s Sacai menswear for winter, where the brands love of...
An ode to fans, past and present. That was the inspiration of Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo, who thought not of rock icons but of said icons’ legions of faithful followers for...
Lovely honest-to-goodness clothes. That’s what A.P.C. delivers, not heavy fashion. Jean Touitou would like that, we think – he’s said before he’s not a fashion designer, he...
Alessandro Sartori went to the desert to find inspiration for his latest Berluti collection. It wasn’t Lawrence of Arabia or anything overwrought like that, more to the desert landscape of...
Botswana renegades, a hot Moroccan palette, a few snakes, Berlin clubbers and a dozen haute couture gowns. Shake it all together and bake in a hot pink box for ten glorious minutes. That’s a...
The armour of peace. That’s what Rei Kawakubo declared her intention was, for winter, for her for Comme Des Garçons’ garçons. She showed articulated plate armour-style suiting blooming...
Jason Basmajian is the new man at Cerruti 1881 – their chief creative officer, which sounds a bit military. And indeed, there was a military precision to what he offered for winter 2016, in a...
Magic mushrooms and over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders. Those were the big things going on at Loewe. The boulder-shoulder stuff was actually a gargantuan backpack borrowed from Great War soldiers,...
Think Ann Demeulemeester – now helmed by Sebastian Meunier – is all about dour, dreary black? Pallor and bones and no fun? Think again. It isn’t exactly a laughriot mind: Meunier...
“Finding the humanity and acknowledging the machine.” Maison Margiela love to get philosophical. But their menswear kine has always been subtitled “a wardrobe for men” and...
We love Joy Division. Who doesn’t love Joy Division? Idiots, that’s who. Junya Watanabe played nothing bar Joy Division at his show, which was worth the trek to the 20th arrondissement...
So many people have been pumping up volumes, strapping up punk homages, wearing out cloth and blurring gender boundaries, it’s easy to think it’s all edgy and new. It’s easy to...
Is this the real life? Is this just fantasy? Were Queen at a Dries Van Noten show when they wrote that? My guess is yes. The latest mixed the psychedelic fantasies of sixties artist Wes Wilson with...
Julien’s always been a dab hand when it comes to fabric. And his AW16 offering was no different – here was his take on denim, denim ready to rule the future – the Japanese stretch...
Save and survive. That was Gosha Rubchinskiy’s show title – he wasn’t thinking pessimistically, but rather quoting an old Russian saying. Not sure if it was about saving money to...
Junichi Abe of Kolor is married to Chitose Abe of Sacai. They’re a fashion power couple. That fact also illuminates Mr Abe’s approach to fabric and cloth, which shares an affinity with...
A giant bubbly puffer coat like a vat of bubbling tar. A few melting Wicked Witch If The West shearlings slipping and sliding about the body. A bleached bit of denim that looks, we must admit, a bit...
Neonomad. The new traveller. We love travelling – mostly for air miles, which means we can travel even more. But travelling necessitates carting your couture about the globe, plus a few...
“Nightmares and Dreams” was Raf Simons’ title for his autumn/winter 2016 show. We feel it was more of the latter than the former in the crunchy knits, the elephantine sweaters and...
Lush velvet, glimmering sequins, and “flaccid pompadours” – Haider Ackermann’s quote, not ours. Those were the components that made up his autumn/winter 2016 collection,...
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli seem a bit polished for travelling much. Then again, Mr Valentino himself voyaged pretty much constantly – admittedly between Gstaad, Tangiers, Paris...
Giorgio Armani’s shows are eminently wearable, the perfect contending of his message for the make wardrobe. Theme? Who cares about themes – how about some actual clothes you can actually...
#mangapunk – that’s not the title but the hashtag of the Dsquared2 winter show. Meaning you can click on it and see a bajillion multi-angle views of the multiple angles and looks of this...
Fur, glorious fur. Thick, creamy and… faux. At least, the stuff that carpeted Fendi’s autumn/winter 2016 catwalk was, although the rest of the stuff was decidedly real. Really...
The painting of Elizabeth Peyton mashed with the electroclash of Cassius. That was the theme of MSGM’s autumn/winter 2016 collection, in itself a mixed-up mash-up of textures, colours, casual...
The winds of change are still a-blowin’ at Gucci, where Alessandro Michele continues to breath new life into one of Italian fashion’s oldest (and biggest) brands. The mix this time was...
The roots of Diesel are in utilitarian, youth-tinged sportswear. That’s a massive emerging feeling for the autumn/winter 2016 collections across the board, so the label were well-placed to make...
A major focus on comfort. God, who doesn’t want to hear that when they’re reading about clothes? It was the thrust of Giorgio Armani’s winter 2016 Emporio Armani collection, a...
The stage was set: a plywood town square, an arena for spectacles, said Mrs Prada backstage. A place where all people gather together, to experience. A Prada show is always an experience. Something...
A giant exhibition on Missoni’s fashion heritage has just ground to a halt outside Milan – it’s set to be exported to London later this year. Was the daunting prospect of packing it...
“Be specific” was the title of the Vivienne Westwood MAN show… but wait. Should we still use the “MAN”? Because this autumn/winter 2016 collection was about bending and...
Andy Warhol is emerging as something of an unexpected, underground hero of the autumn/winter 2016 men’s collections. They was something very Warhol, after all, about the bloody Velvet...
Feminine stuff is designer Alessandro dell’Acqua’s bag. His No. 21 womenswear collections heave with the stuff, but it always feels edgier and cooler on the men. This Autumn/winter 2016...
Designers are obsessed with the notion of wardrobes – well they should be. Wardrobes are wear clothes end up, physically and ideologically. That’s where we pull our looks from. But real...
“I wanted to show the universal power of men’s tailoring,” said Italo Zucchelli after a Calvin Klein Collection autumn/winter 2016 show that demonstrated just that, including the stuff on a...