The thing that slaps you square in the face at every Armani Privé show? The clients. Not literally – except for Sophia Loren’s beefcake security guards manhandling her backstage to smooch gorg Giorg on both cheeks post-show. But the fact they are there in force and en masse is quite a statement at haute couture.
Maybe we should call it alta moda as Signor Armani’s interpretation is so quintessentially Italian. In fact it’s quintessentially him. There’s a rather un-couture focus on daywear for a start, a core of Armani’s business and the arena he revolutionised with his deconstructed tailoring in the seventies. Today, it’s more structured – this time, backs bloused, long coats stood away from the busy and sleeves belled in a series of pretty and pretty covetable trouser suits.
Armani’s evening couture always makes me focus on the “Privé.” It feels like a private pleasure, a personal indulgence, a chance to explore the more eccentric, extrovert sides of his character. He’s staged an exhibition called “Eccentrico” to highlight just that unexpected Armani oeuvre. The fluff ball coats, playful fountains of tulle and polka-dotted millinery veiling should fit right in.
By Alexander Fury
Alexander Fury is Fashion Editor of The Independent