Sunday 19th February

| BY Jack Moss

Fashion East: Ready-to-wear AW17

An orgy of young talent in the basement of the Tate, courtesy of Fashion East and their latest talented trio of BYTs. Started with Mimi Wade. This was a bit come to the boudoir. Marabou feathers always say come to the bedroom. So too do silky slip dresses. But cartoon-y. Mimi is obsessed with movies, and here it was about the cartoons ingrained in her head since childhood. Pink Panther, in particular – with hot pink paw prints that covered the collection. Dial M, as was printed across the collection, not for murder, but for Mimi. Next was Asai, whose press release came in the form of a Chinese takeaway menu. It was about being Chinese in the west, apparently, and how that culture get mixed up as it travels. There was lots of disintegrating fabric here, touches of tartan and gold, a brill white puffa jacket and matching knee-high boots. A nice circular leather cowboy belt, too. Call it a bit of a pick ‘n’ mix. Or, as is fitting, a takeaway. Can I get a 4, a 6 and a 10? To close, Matty Bovan and a swift change of set – hundreds of stage hands creating a cityscape before our very eyes. It was a bit dystopian, so too the clothes – made on Eighties knitting machines, it was a clash of textures and colour, as if the girls had picked up their belongings and left off. There was mention on the press release of Blade Runner and Dune, but also of medieval history. He grew up in York – it’s very old. Which meant lots of hanging bits – mountaineering cords, buckles, blanket-like knits covered in flowers. So too the totemic jewellery – some shiny rhinestone, some painted driftwood. And, as a dessert, or should we say starter, as we saw it just before, Supriya Lele, who showed a presentation in the lobby. Exploring her dual British and Indian heritage, and modern femininity in the process, it involved latex macs, knickers and massive dangling earrings. Our evening sorted, then.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans

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