Sunday 17th September

| BY Jack Moss

Fashion East: Ready-to-wear SS18

Mama Lulu’s latest crop of fashion hot shots showed their wares on Charing Cross road this morning. First up, Supriya Lele. I want to call this trash to treasure. Not that there was any actual trash, per se, rather the way that raw cut PVC and bin-baggy fabrics were refashioned into slinky skirts or strapless ruched dresses that sat over oversized cotton t-shirts. Supriya’s heritage is Indian, and here, a hot pink dress was reminiscent of a draped sari, exposing a slither of skin and worn with crystal jewels that sat around the upper arm. ASAI also drew on his heritage, Chinese, creating a collection that clashed archetypal pieces – jeans, a trench, a bomber with Western stereotypes of the country. Rubber boots in Ming vase blue and white were painted with dragons or goldfish and Chinese jacquards were used to make roomy trousers that gathered at the ankle, or straps that criss-crossed the chest. Symbols of Britishness were unravelled, like a Burberry-esque check that fell away into trails of thread.

Finally, the brilliant Matty Bovan, who talked about his designs being a matter of balancing the desirable with the frankly revolting. Nothing revolting here that we could see – but it spoke of his ability to mix good and bad taste, or in his words, taking something gross and making it good. Here, lurid knits were patchworked together, the drapy, disintegrating silhouette echoed in spiderweb fabrics in gold. Something orthopaedic too – clear cast-like armbands and shin-pads, strapped to the models with utility straps. It sounds wrong, but it was really quite right, very right in fact – and that’s what Matty is so good at, and why he gets the best models in the business. Congratulations to all three designers – you’re all very good.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans

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