Haider Ackermann: Ready-to-Wear AW18
In a cloud of smoke inside the Chaillot – Theatre National de la Danse, Haider Ackermann presented a Vanishing Act. Well, not literally. These clothes were very much alive, pulsating with clashes of colour. Here to stay. Chartreuse and azure coloured tights melded into velvet lace up boots, anchoring whole looks, silhouettes so skinny and lean. ‘Decaying’ jackets were pulled in tightly at the waist, patchworks happening on the front, that sense of care worn history. Glossy luscious black pants and jackets were the foil, so slick and chic, a disappearing act in amongst all that smoke.
Dresses ruffled, tailored jackets plunged and then cinched, turning into mini skirts, all happening in one. Haider Ackermann makes life easy. All flawless, not bulky. Flaming satin was embroidered reflected in those fiery pretty mullets. Only Haider can make us see beauty in a mullet. They way they walked and wore it all had a loose, nonchalant confidence, a certainty. Yep, it’s just the Haider woman’s way of life. Attitude on. Lou Reed’s ‘Vanishing Act’ in all it’s dark symphonious drama summed it up, “It might be nice to disappear, to have a vanishing act, to always be looking forward, never look over your back.” The Haider Ackermann woman is only going onwards and upwards. A spectacular and singular rise.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans