Olivier Theyskens is back. Back in black, to quote from the AC/DC song sheet. For his return was black. And strict. Reminiscent of an English governess, or if you want a better visual, Nicole Kidman in the Others. That v-neck on the fitted jackets with the wide chiffon skirts was rather 1940’s slightly creepy woman in fiction. But this wasn’t a homage to that. This was Theyskens at his best, paired down with deep Gothic undertones. Tops of dresses were fitted to the body, and flared from the waist, coming down the runway in a variety of guises, from the aforementioned governess, to shorter, skater dress incarnations and of course his signature ballgowns, with the elongated bodices. There was slight erotic kink that came through in the materials. This was a celebration of the most sensual ones, from soft suede to shiny pythons which were paired with sheer, almost cobwebby laces and sheer chiffons, with hook and eye fastenings running up the front of tops. Rich red silk and bright white added to the witchy ness of the collection, underscoring the creepy undercurrent that shown through. Think of this as midnight in the garden of good and evil. It’s been a while since you felt a chill down your spine at a show. It’s a good feeling.
Photographs courtesy of Olivier Theyskens