Monday 6th January

| BY Helena Fletcher

Astrid Andersen: Menswear AW20

Sometimes you have to look back to move forward. For AW20, Astrid Andersen celebrated the start of the 2020s by reflecting on youthful memories and her childhood family home in Denmark. Within the collection, she also revisited her own archives, quoting and refreshing the signature pieces, which first came onto our radar at the start of the previous decade when she showed her first collections after graduating from the Royal College of Art. Think tracksuits, form-fitting sportswear and logoed shirts and jackets in a colour palette that featured army greens, gold, traffic cone orange, pinks and khaki neutrals.

Set to a fun and nostalgia-inducing soundtrack which incorporated Pink Floyd, Massive Attack, Mac DeMarco, Lancey Foux and Steve Monite’s Only You, the models assertively made their way down the catwalk. A distorted floral print, which came printed on the front of the invite, formed the centrepiece of the collection, appearing on puffers, a boiler suit, shirts and balaclavas. The rose print itself was an interpretation of one which appeared on a sofa Andersen’s mother had bought when she first left home aged 18 back in 1971. For Andersen, it became a personal symbol of the founding of Copenhagen’s self-governing free-state Christiana. Her floral acts as simultaneously an emblem for a break with convention and optimism for the future – the perfect way to start the decade.

Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.