Astrid Andersen: Menswear SS17
Astrid Anderson is one of those designers of subtle nuances. Essentially what she does is sportswear, with a 90’s spin on it. Sportswear that at first feels familiar, but take a closer look and you’ll notice that it’s full of little touches that elevate it far beyond a tracksuit. Take for example those 90’s popper joggers. They’re here. But they come in shirting fabric, or super thin nylons, in a washed out, sunbleached pallet of pink, pale gold, black, cut through with wide strips of reptile print and spliced with lace. To use a weird analogy, it appears almost like something out of a desert storm. Remember Ralph Fiennes in the English Patient when he’s in the desert, wrapped in swaddling bands, it could just be me, it probably is, but there’s something of that here. The collection also sees the introduction of womenswear, something that is making itself more and more of a presence during the mens shows with each passing season. In Astrid’s hands though, it’s all about a reproportioning of a silhouette more than anything else, a creation of what is in a sense a unisex wardrobe. To quote the press release, for SS17, Astrid Anderson is asking us to, “consider “time”, the blurred lines between season and nature, how it stretches before us and slips away behind”, and there is very much a sense of timelessness to this.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans