Saturday 21st January

| BY 10 Magazine

Berluti: Menswear AW17

Haider Ackermann’s Berluti debut was the hot ticket of Paris’ menswear shows. Why? Because everyone has wanted to see, for a long time, what Ackermann’s would do if flexing his creative muscle under another label – he’s been proposed for just about every fashion job going free, but Berluti were the smart ones who nabbed him. The match is perfect given Ackermann’s feel for handworked precious materials – generally stuff like velvet, but with a counterpart in the hand-worked men’s shoes for which Berluti established its name and place in the luxury canon. What Ackermann did – cleverly – was marry that feel of his to Berluti’s traditions, extending the idea to a whole outfit. So tailored suits and coats came in gemstone coloured velvets or soft wools with fur colours in striking contrasts of hues. There was also a new use for Berluti show leather in a skinny, elongated boot that mused on the styles of right now but with the expert craftsmanship you can normally only find in the past. As opposed to the artsy bohemiana of Ackermann’s own label, there was a sense of uptown polish to his Berluti wares (they cost a pretty penny after all) without surrendering to convention or conservatism. In short, this was a Berluti blinder.