Burberry: Menswear AW21

The great outdoors continues to be an inspiration for Riccardo Tisci, who presented his first dedicated men’s show for the brand. Called Escapes, he teased it with clips of models running free through the bucolic British landscape and up Regent Street, before ending up at the Burberry flagship, where the collection video was filmed.

Outerwear played a starring role in this show with Tisci taking Burberry classics like the trench, duffle and car coat, but giving them a totally new energy. He radically transformed these traditional pieces with unconventional cuts and hybrid structures. A trench at the front is a Harrington from behind. Pleats and bullion fringing added a dynamic sense of movement as the models swept around a specially constructed wooden set. Silk scarves cinched waists, knitwear and outerwear melded with V-neck trenches worn like tunics over trousers. Messenger bags were magnified to supersize proportions. Tisci also proposed shirt dresses worn with over-the-knee, leather sock-boots as an alternative to a traditional masculine shirt.

Those looks added to the general sense of Tisci defying convention to follow his own rules. He’s always championed the marginalised and this collection was a tribute to those who proudly stand outside convention. He described it as, “A homage to the relationship between humanity and nature, where we can break free and come together to discover new forms of expression. It’s for those who are defining their own path, whose strength and energy have inspired this Burberry collection.” This was a startlingly experimental collection full of new forms, new cuts and new ideas for how to wear things.

Photography courtesy of Burberry.