Saturday 21st January

| BY 10 Magazine

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: Menswear AW17

Boys love toys. We know that well. So does Rei Kawakubo, who was in an unusually playful mood for her Winter 2017 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection. Her boys didn’t just love their toys, they wore them, with mounds of trains or Lego-alike protrusions studding their tailored coats, like jelly moulds jutting from the surfaces of the fabric. The garments were, largely, suits, a cross between schoolboy attire and business wear, like Kawakubo was exploring the place when boys become men. Alas, she didn’t play Boyz II Men on the soundtrack, but it was spooling through our heads as her models took their turns in the gilded salons of the Hotel Westin. Incidentally, that was formerly the Hotel Intercontinental, where Yves Saint Laurent showed his haute couture collection’s that shook the fashion world. How appropriate – oddly – that another fashion radical now uses it to show her commentary on the world around us. Was this show making a pointed political point about the men in suits currently toying with the world around us, or maybe on how we’d all be much happier if we rediscovered our lost youthful joy. Not sure. Madame Kawakubo is inscrutable as always. But she’s also fashion’s great thinker. There’s deep stuff going on here.