Friday 30th October

| BY Paul Toner

Craig Green: Menswear SS21

If any designer was equipped to dress us for a global pandemic, it would be Craig Green. The menswear maven offers his loyal customers a sense of protection with his clothes. His garments are agile, adaptable – often resembling armour or a voluminous second skin. He designs with both practicality and fantasy in mind; elevated garments for making statements in all walks of life. Saying this, there’s a tenderness to what Green does. His most ambitious silhouettes feel poetic opposed to rigid, a dichotomy that has made him one of the most desirable brands of this generation.

Skipping digitalised fashion weeks in both June and September, Green quietly dropped his spring/summer 2021 collection this morning. With a second lockdown looming above our heads like an impending storm, this military-infused collection feels very attuned to the now. A uniform for this dark, new world. Crinkled linen overcoats and straight-legged trousers stand toe-to-toe with extravagant hooded capes which resemble deflated tents. The designer’s signature ribbed jackets come in crimson red, khaki and charcoal – equipped with accompanying white hats that resemble takeaway boxes and bags which can be folded down and tied around the waist.

Working once more with Adidas Originals, Green crafted his most experimental shoe to date: an open-toed boot in a silhouette fairly similar to a cast. These are joined by a waffle-soled trainer tied together with drawstring fastenings and a pastel-hued, 1980s-style gum sole silhouette.

Photography by Amy Gwatkin.