Saturday 14th January

| BY 10 Magazine

Diesel Black Gold: Menswear AW17

If Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad is a Netflix binger, it’s not old series of Miranda (unlike us), but rather something that’s going to feed his brain and inspire his collections. After all, these days, a designer’s work is never done. For Winter, Melbostad had been curled top watching the 1983 movie Revenge of the Ninja, a cult hit due to its elaborate martial arts sequences and B-movie production values. What Melbostad translated that to was a feel of aggression and strong graphic silhouettes, matched with a certain Japanese fluidity to their attire – he dropped the crotch and pumped up the volume on his trousers, below square-cut tunics and jackets like martial arts gear. Although the gear was cut in denims and tough black leather, pulling it out of the costume department and into real life. Even when a few jackets reflected the elaborate details of Japanese armour through seaming and quilting across the shoulders, they never swayed away from utterly wearable. They also picked top nicely on the mood of military that’s been marching through the season as a whole, but without reverting to cliches. Think martial rather than militia.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans