Dior: Menswear Fall 2020
Talented, creative, inspiring… But above all other things, Kim Jones is a smart man, and there’s plenty of moves in his 16-year-long career that prove it. The latest: showing his Dior men’s Fall 2020 (now renamed from Pre-Fall) collection in Miami, Florida, a day before the much-hyped Art Basel fair opens its doors to art lovers and wealthy people from all over the world. While a year ago, he took fashion troupes into Tokyo, Japan for an indulgent experience in the culture that inspired him, this December it was time for a brand exercise that was in-tune with the global appeal of his menswear designs at Dior. Over the next few days, Miami will be a hub of celebrity and art, both things playing a big role in the world of Kim Jones.
First look out on the turquoise-hued catwalk covered with hand-drawn logos reminiscent of Stussy’s signature font (more about that later) was a turquoise jumper with “Dior” written all over it, a pair of corduroy bermuda shorts, two patterned shirts layered over each other and a monogram print bag under-arm, with a crochet beret in contrasting colours on top. A lot to take in – or was it? The first impression might have been an eclectic mish-mash of silhouettes, colours and textures, but in fact, these pieces could easily be broken down into individual staples and introduced into just about anyone’s wardrobe. Part of that first look was also a trainer that made their rounds around the social media even before the show commenced – Air Jordan I High OG Dior, created in collaboration with Jordan Brand (who debuted the silhouette in 1985), will only be made in 8,500 pairs and is bound to become an icon of the resale market like the Supreme merch Jones presented during his time at Louis Vuitton.
Another collaboration that debuted on the catwalk was the designer’s work with streetwear pioneer Shawn Stussy who brought in his own signatures into the convo. Not only through graffiti fonts and prints reminiscent of his surf merch brand founded during the 1980s, Stussy’s influence was seen on the more subtle beachy elements which hark back to those early days. Bucket hats with floral corsages as well as brooches and jewellery created by Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, all breathe with the irreverent spirit of Stussy’s hey-day of counter-culturing about. “Kim reached out to me through a very old mutual friend, Fraser Cooke. Fraser had worked with Michael Kopelman, who was my guy in London for many years. He inquired if he could give a buddy my number. When I asked who, he replied Kim Jones… I knew the name as we both come from the same circle of buddies, but from different eras. I was, of course, familiar with the Louis Vuitton collaboration he had done with my friend James Jebbia from Supreme. Kim called, and six months later we’re at the runway show in Miami. The world works in strange ways, as I have always believed,” Shawn Stussy told us.
As the collection went on, there was a constant interaction between fine tailoring and casual codes. The outcome was a full dictionary of sartorial elements executed in unexpected ways – from metallic ponchos to multi-coloured snake twinsets and oversized floral knits reminiscent of granny’s framed crochet. There was a definite sense of humour which Jones allowed to interrupt his otherwise highly intellectualised ideas of menswear. With plenty things to shop for and even more to dream of, Dior men’s Fall 2020 show was about the potential of men’s style and yet another chapter of worldly interpretations. Where to next? Who knows, but wherever the Dior men’s circus heads, the show is guaranteed.
Backstage photographs by Alfredo Piola below.