Emporio Armani: Menswear AW18
Every time I look at an Emporio Armani show, my first thought is always American Gigolo, and Richard Gere. American Gigolo because I now, 10 years into trying to be a gigolo and not being one, am jealous. Secondly, Richard Gere. Because, lets be honest, Gere looked fine. Not to mention the fact that the film, for which Armani himself designed the costumes, ushered in a new era of relaxed tailoring that allowed you, should your credit card stretch so far, to have your own Gere at home, to do with as you please. If you squinted your eyes.
Anyway, moving on swiftly, this season, Emporio Armani is championing the individual. Stick true to who you are and power on through. Needless to say there’s an urban, city dweller element to the collection. Silhouettes, though classic in appearance, seem to be shrunk when worn on the body, accentuating the sharpness of the cut. There’s nothing like a slightly too tight in fit shoulder to convey a message of power, visually manifesting itself through the raw bulk that lies beneath.
The opening of the show also spoke of power, of a different kind. Bomber jackets, open from the neck down, and paired with motorcycle helmets, hinted at a renegade attitude, before neatly segueing into more tailored suits, that when paired with mirrored, round aviators, ever so discreetly whispered Wall Street off duty. Have you ever, like me, dreamed of a world where Blade Runner and Wall Street merge into one? A stand-off between Rick Deckard and Gordon Gekko? Apparently some dreams can come true.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans