Monday 14th January

| BY Richard Gray

Emporio Armani: Menswear AW19

Even city boys take time off: for you, a roomier trouser and a jogging bottom that’s too smart for the running machine. Wear this with any of the exceptional knits: two were fabulous and used a new kind of half and half colour tie-dye technique. When it gets cold – we’re presumably in for another “Beast from the East” than the five looks of big winter coats will sort it. These spoke to the off-piste lodges of Gstaad. Velvet joggers and tops, too: these were smarter. And useful. To carry your ski goggles; would a snake-print hobo bag suit, sir? Not that any of this is meant solely for on and off-piste. If anything, this Emporio Armani collection is for the city. It’s a fusing of both worlds – all lines – in one. As designers elsewhere reference each other, every season, Mr Armani references himself and that unparalleled archive (is there a bigger one?) with the outside world in mind and asks: how does the house DNA evolve and speak to faithful but new customers with new wardrobe requirements? The city-goes-skiing coats and bags, those bulky sneakers and boots, will chime with a younger clientele perhaps new to the world of Armani. This was one hell of a useful wardrobe.

Photography By Jason Lloyd- Evans.