Saturday 12th January

| BY Dino Bonacic

Ermenegildo Zegna: Menswear AW19

Planned arrival time: 8.30, Milan Time.
Estimated Arrival Time: 9:00, Milan time.

Quite in-tune with the nature of its rail station setting, the Ermenegildo Zegna AW19 show ran exactly half an hour late. But when it came, it was clear the wait was worth it. The opening look – a brown suit made in a fine printed textile made in an immaculately tailored silhouette (trouser cropped, jacket an inch longer than usual) served a vision that was totally clear. It’s was modern and aspirational, but totally understandable to the wider crowds. Because, let’s be clear – Ermenegildo Zegna is a global brand that plays between the boundaries of modernity and tradition, and it does so masterfully. The fabrication game was on point too – big majority of the pieces were made with exclusive wool, cashmere and nylon fabrics created with innovative processes from pre-existing sources.

A whole range of colourful chunky knits brought in a sense of youth as did the accessories – bags, wool flat caps, shoes and trainers… Down the massive staircase the models descended onto the Art Deco mosaic floor of Milano Stazione Centrale, bringing a new sense of freshness to the 109-year-old Italian heritage brand. The trouser shape, slightly cropped with elasticated cuffs, was unexpected enough and suggested a new sense formality to the wearer. This Zegna man could be going to his office or to fashion week, it’s totally unclear. And that’s what makes him the enviably stylish and charming sartorial god he is. Someone you want to be. Or just be around and borrow his fabulous outerwear.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.