Saturday 16th January

| BY Claudia Croft

Ermenegildo Zegna: Menswear AW21

After a year of unprecedented change and global turmoil, artistic director Alessandro Sartori has pressed “The (Re)set,” button at Zegna. This was no reversion to factory settings or wiping away of past achievements. This reset was an elegant, nuanced response to the way we live and work post-pandemic.

Comfort was a driving factor with Sartori pushing technical boundaries to achieve the most modern response. He used a super lightweight cashmere jersey, specially developed for the house. With it, the tailoring, for which Zegna is so revered, became ultra supple, light and infused with ease. Everything had freedom and the comfort one might associate with a tracksuit but none of the sloppiness. The cuts were wider and looser, with an appealing new over-shirt shape introduced as an alternative to the formal jacket.

It was supremely elegant but robust: a working wardrobe and a wardrobe that works. Sartori showed some pieces on women, to reflect the fact that this collection will come in a wider range of sizes. Post-reset Zegna is for all genders. Alongside that, there were some spectacular knits – Zegna’s technical virtuosity in this area is quite awesome. It was all set against a stunning backdrop of Milan’s most audacious architecture. These are clothes for modern living. These are elegant solutions for today. These are clothes for life.

Photography courtesy of Zegna.