Friday 28th August

| BY Natalie Dembinska

Ermenegildo Zegna: The Collection

Zegna CoverThe set at Ermenegildo Zegna was a forest, shipped in from Trivero, the home of the Zegna mills, complete with wildlife sounds and rolling thunder. As the boys walked out through a thicket, it felt like Stefano Pilati was standing backstage, releasing his creations into the wild, sort of like when George released Harry back in Harry and the Hendersons. Anyway, the real reason for the forest? Sustainability. Essentially, this was an essay in how to combine the idea of luxury and sustainability. A new uniform for the modern eco-warrior. Layers of clothing in a palette of autumnal shades. The sustainability aspect came in the fabrics. Harris Tweeds sourced from their original archives were recycled and duplicated in cashmeres, and in some cases, needle punched with recycled plastic, giving them a slight sheen that was mimicked in the more urban, but no less protective, PVC raincoats and waxed panel jackets. Cashmeres from Zegna’s own archive were taken apart, the threads used to create new cashmeres, the ultimate in recycling. The eco-warrior slant, the idea of protective armour, was further underlined by backpacks, worn on the front of the body, covering the chest almost like a shield. Forget what Kermit once sang, being green is getting easier every day.

Photograph: Jason Lloyd-Evans