Saturday 16th January

| BY Claudia Croft

Fendi: Menswear AW21

Silvia Venturini Fendi was in an optimistic mood and it showed in her jewel-coloured Fendi AW21 men’s collection. In a filmed presentation, directed by Italian artist Nico Vascellari, Fendi’s models stalked a striking set which featured a maze of neon doorways, suspended inside a mirrored tunnel. It was a festival of light, but also of craft. This house is second to none in that respect.

The shapes – heavy shirts and terrific skater shorts – borrowed from street and workwear but the clothes were constructed like Couture. Several pieces featured winking slash seams that flashed contrasting shades as the models walked. Many pieces were reversible, further underlying Fendi’s melding of function, versatility and craft.

There were plenty of quirks, from the dreamscape graphics supplied by none other than Bake Off’s Noel Fielding, to scarf/cardigan hybrids, ribbed onesies, and fabulous jewel-coloured, quilted dressing gown coats. Those coats were the stand-out pieces and brought the bygone glamour of gentlemanly dress codes bang up to date.

Speaking of banging, the urgent, electro soundtrack, produced by Not Waving, featured samples of the unmistakable voice of Silvia Venturini Fendi herself. The whole thing burst with a powerful, playful energy. F is for freedom and for fun.

Photography courtesy of Fendi.