Saturday 18th January

| BY Dino Bonacic

GmbH: Menswear AW20

This season, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby decided to take things back in time. But like, really back, all the way to when our whole universe was just 380,000 years old. Titled Ylem after this period on the cosmology timeline, their AW20 collection wasn’t about exploring style interpretations of comets and atomic cells. Instead, Isik and Huseby focused on the equivalent period of emergence in GmbH as a brand. High-quality tailoring interwoven with new ideas and signature, sexy details is what started this duo off and created the wave success they’re continuing to ride. 

Finding the new formal – that’s the mission of GmbH enabled with the enviable pattern-cutting skills Isik himself contributes to the story. Fitted blazers in patchworks of felted wool with sculpted shoulders and boxy trench coats challenged traditional ideas that still dominate the world of menswear suiting. An operatic performance by the designers’ close friend and contra-tenor Steve Katona came in the middle of the show, as composed and imagined by experimental musician and artist Bill John Bultheel. With exposed shoulders and slashes incorporated into the knits, the booming erotica continued, offering  the GmbH audience a wardrobe for special occasions. Whether that’s a night at the opera or a whole weekend spent at Berghain, it’s totally up to you…

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.