Saturday 23rd January

| BY Paul Toner

GmbH: Menswear AW21

GmbH is a label fed by real-life experience. The two founders – Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby – met on a Berlin dancefloor in 2015, and have since been making club-meets-corporate-meets-sex-meets-all-round-ace clobber that reflects the everyday lives of their clan of Berliners. But what happens when Berghain’s closed, offices are moved home and sex, er, can get you a hefty fine if you’re caught shagging during lockdown?

The duo called their latest collection Welt am Draht (it means ‘World on a Wire’), borrowing the title from a 1973 sci-fi German television series that suggested the world we live in exists entirely in another universe: a simulation. Very of the now when you consider most of our lives exist facing a computer screen these days. The age of the Zoom and what not.

Each of the 28 looks – showcased in a concrete Berlin office building – are meant to be worn anywhere but the house. Whether you’re off hiking or going for a spot of cruising, say the pair. GmbH’s signature shoulder-wrapped tailoring was the collection’s focal point, as Isik and Huseby looked to mid-century Couture techniques to inform their menswear. Off-the-shoulder silhouettes in techy satins, faux fur and (p)leather gave you ladies of luxury if they favoured techno basements over fancy restaurants. Or Berlin over Paris.

Whether it’s all over snakeskin suits, skin-tight knits or steel-heeled riding boots – part of the pair’s first vegan footwear range – GmbH gives the idea of dressing up again a firm grit in its teeth and a whole lot of oomph in the libido department.

Photography courtesy of GmbH.