Gosha Rubchinskiy: Menswear SS17
Gosha Rubchinskiy chose to show his SS17 collection at Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence, the first time as part of Pitti Uomo. A bleak, brutalist outdoor space that was a tobacco factory in a past life. Lots of concrete. Basically, a place where the Gosha man, or should we say boy, could feel at home. Iron curtain meets Italia. And with that, the designer’s army of some bleached, some buzzed boys, stomped out from underneath the concrete blocks. They wore (alongside clothes of course, which we’ll get to) “don’t bother fucking with me” faces. Not to be mistaken with threatening. They’re chill. They don’t want stress. They wore sportswear. Actual branded sportswear. Tracksuits, sweatbands, white socks, shorts, gym bags. Kappa, Fila, ergio tacchini. All those brands we used to wear. But there also was a touch of tailoring this time too, not grown up so much, but electrified in bright reds and flashes of fluoro yellows, contrasted with more subtle grey cord jackets, blue denim and a smattering of all black looks. The highlight? The silver velvet look. Call it luxe. Ironic luxe, perhaps. And then, the finale. His boys marched out en masse. Unstoppable. A bit like Gosha, really. He’s a movement. A man marching to his own beat. And where he goes, we follow.