Thursday 19th January

| BY 10 Magazine

Haider Ackermann: Menswear AW17

Haider Ackermann is a natty textile technician, and a wicked tailor. Those two aspects of his oeuvre (as they say in French) are what netted him Berluti: his debut happens this Friday, and we’re all on tenterhooks. But the appointment evidently made Ackermann re-examine what his own label stands for – this was Haider returning to his codes, restating them and, simultaneously, showing the influence he’s had over menswear. Jewel-coloured velvets? Innovative, luxuriously maltreated fabrics? A skinny tailored silhouette of slender trousers and body-grabbing coat? It’s all Ackermann. This collection had an added level of expertise and pure luxe: the fabrics were woven to magically transform from, say, a hardy wool into a lush velvet, or from monochrome houndstooth check into glistening amber, like you’d trailed your hem in honey. There was a new casual ease, too, with lumberjack checks and distressed knits, sweatshirts pulled off shoulders, and a chic sense of the undone. In short, it’ll look good on everyone. It looked especially great on Ackermann though as he took his final bow. One down…

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans