Sunday 27th June

| BY Claudia Croft

Hermès: Menswear SS22

If Hermès was an emotion, it would be an anxiety-free zone. Of all the brands in the fashion-verse, Hermès is least likely to suffer from self-doubt. Everything here is beautifully fit for purpose – a true coming together of craft, comfort and design.

This was Véronique Nichanian’s first show with an audience since the Covid pandemic began and even the Parisian drizzle couldn’t dampen the aura of calm assurance projected by her designs. Her models walked the courtyard of the Mobilier National with easy confidence, the details of their looks picked up on big screen projections, devised by theater director, Cyril Teste.

There’s an intimacy to how she dresses men, with whispered details and up-close embellishments – it’s all about subtle layers of texture and there’s always a feeling of luxury. Hooded parkas, rope belts and zig-zag stitch detailing spoke to her loose theme of sailing. Zip-up blousons in technical fabrics were printed like silk scarves and many of the pieces were reversible. Alongside a demand for practicality, the Hermès man also has a taste for the exceptional. Nichanian provided it with blush pink leather Bermudas, vivid dégradé cashmere knits and even shaped the bottom of her Bolide bags like a skateboard.

Photography courtesy of Hermès.