Wednesday 14th June

| BY Jack Moss

Hugo Boss Show An Artist-Inspired Hugo Collection In Florence

Okay, so we’re thinking that he’s the naughty-schoolboy sort. Not in a uniform, mini skirt-and-tie sort of a way, but more that HUGO’s SS18 collection, shown at Pitti this evening, felt a bit unravelled. Rebellious, even. Thrown on. Clothes were scrawled with writing, a bit like when you leave after year 11. Those scribbles were inspired by Basquiat, apparently, and he was the central point of this – maybe not him specifically, but more the general artist as a muse. That’s what the press notes said. The artist is a person who sees things from a different perspective, said notes read. They are an outsider. So could we call this a take on outsider fashion? Maybe. There was definitely something a bit skewed about it. Tailoring that was big on the shoulders and roomy, worn with these massive blown-up Hugo satchels. Loads of swirling prints. Colours themselves were painterly – beginning with white, then beige, and then swirling towards splashes of blues, yellows and signature Hugo Boss red.

Got to mention the girls, too, because they were there, lots of them – big girls, not in size but reputation – Lineisy and Binx and the like. They wore these sheer corset tops, almost haphazardly put-together, so too the saucy, ripped away slip dresses. No bad thing – that’s what drove the collection – this loosening up of the Hugo Boss DNA into something younger, something that girls and boys want to actually wear, and are wearing. And there were pyrotechnics, which is always appreciated. More specifically, for want of a more appropriate description, a large ring of fire. Which, all in all, made it a satisfying spectacle for Pitti night number 1.

www.hugoboss.com