Thursday 17th January

| BY Richard Gray

JW Anderson: Menswear AW19

The cut-and-paste, Tumblr-like mind of  Jonathan Anderson is impressive. His work stands out as one of the most researched and curious amongst his peers. He reads and pours over books and manuals; he’s an avid art fan. But it was his knowledge of social history and costume, which shone through at the JW Anderson AW19 runway show, in Paris, just.
Puzzling at first but always with that guaranteed “ah!” moment afterwards, Anderson’s current focus “time hops” between medieval Britain and “the now”, specifically the current-Tokyo-born streetwear take on mountaineering.

Blending details from tech-y hiking apparel with clothing from this long-forgotten period, brought a new and exciting energy to the season ahead.
The line-out of shorts with pull-cord hems, long wool tunics and gingham shirting, cut and spliced and re-sewn were wonderful. Knee-length socks in animal print jarred with beast-skin shoes. Can we call this new look of Anderson’s “techno peasant”? The knitted coifs and tunics, and a stripy knit with smocking, made the cross-centuries mix stronger, still. He’s so studious.

Photography by Jason Lloyd- Evans.