Friday 17th July

| BY Paul Toner

Jacquemus: Menswear SS21

It’s become a bit of a tradition for Simon Porte Jacquemus to drag the fashion pack outside of central Paris and into the countryside for his shows. This season was a little different. The designer’s SS21 showcase held a small audience of 100 people. Mostly made up of family and friends, everyone sat socially distanced across a 600km-long catwalk buried within field of wheat an hour away from the city. Two seasons back, the designer opted to show co-ed, twice a year, during the menswear shows. “This decision ended up saving us this season,” said the designer, who was able to receive both the fabrics and resources needed to create the collection before the world went into lockdown.

Titled L’Amour, a love letter for his team after a year none of us could’ve imagined, Jacquemus looked to the choreography work of Alexander Ekman and the fashions of Emir Kursturica’s film, Time of the Gypsies, for inspiration. Working in a washed-out palette of greys, greens and yellows, Jacquemus created a cohesive collection that will leave his legions of devotees thirsty for a summer get-away. For the men’s, it was suits in slightly oversized proportions and shirts covered with painterly finger-strokes. Many of the looks came embroidered with micro-beaded wheat sheaves that swayed as the model’s walked through the field. Keeping quintessentially Jacquemus, the womenswear was dominated by slip- and wrap dresses made in summery linens. Dainty bralettes worn with high-waisted trousers, belts adorned with tiny cardholders. The sort of stuff Jacquemus excels at. Model’s carried Jacquemus-stamped punnets of strawberries and a new version of the Chiquito Noeud bag, which can now hold a single plate. Anyone fancy a Jacquemus picnic?