Friday 2nd July

| BY Claudia Croft

Jacquemus: Ready-to-wear AW21

From ravishing lavender fields to an “Abstract, artistic mountain”: Simon Porte Jacquemus is winning when it comes to photogenic settings for his fashion shows. He’s also cornered the market in new-age bodycon, and reclaimed midriff-baring sexiness for a new generation of girls and boys. Surely the next big brand appointment belongs to him?

Determined to make his return to the Paris catwalk a memorable occasion, his models walked a circular catwalk, painted chroma-key green and blue, wearing midriff-baring looks in vibrant lipstick red and pink colour blocks or creamy neutrals. “I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colours, the fabrics, the details and the energy of the models,” said the just-married designer of his vivid setting.

Aside from Kendall Jenner’s spectacular abs, the bikini top was the star of the show and worn by both girls and boys, underneath barely-there cardigans. Jenner’s looks, including the new Oblong bag she carried, were available to buy hot off the catwalk. Jacquemus has moved to a seasonless system so alongside the skimpy silhouettes, were cropped shearling and puffers, whilst tailoring took on eighties jutting proportions. Also notable was the body diverse casting, which is still a rarity in Paris. It proved that you don’t need to have washboard abs to look good in Jacquemus.

Photography courtesy of Jacquemus.