JUUN.J at Pitti Uomo 2016
This seasons Pitti Immagine Uomo guest designer showed the brand’s latest wares in the rather grand Stazione Leopolda in Florence, Italy. Upon entering the vast architectural venue, guests gathered in a spotlit courtyard, which alluded, to me anyway, that editors from across the fashion sphere had been beamed from their fabulous natural habitats to a somewhat apocalyptic unknown planet. Yes, our imaginations here at Ten do tend to run a little wild every now and again, but this show really did have atmosphere. And after perusing the oh so pretty city for the day, the darkness and drama JUUN.J offered felt refreshing in contrast. As soon as the models set foot, slammed foot even, upon the concrete floor, it was clear that this seasons JUUN.J man is not only fearless, he is fearsome. He is a giant and mysterious force to be reckoned with. The sort of leather coat clad, clompy booted, heavy footed guy that might be mates with Neo and Trinity. The colour palette was suitably monochrome for the most part, but the beautifully deep blue-hued looks that popped up every here and there were a highlight. There were also the elements that happily remain a core part of the brands design vocabulary like pinstripe tailoring and boxy proportions. But it was the incredible illustrations etched onto the back of the coats and jackets that elevated the collection. Bionic arms, menacing looking creatures from another world and nude ladies of the robotic variety all featured on the backs of this sexy stomping army. All works of the Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama, as part of a special collaboration for the collection. The music was heavy and powerful, ending in a high pitched screech that was reminiscent of an unidentified being giving birth. Sounds alarming, yes, but it all added to the understanding that this is a man who commands attention. A man who means business. A man that might sweep you off your feet, pick you up, tuck you under his arm and carry you away to a good place. Or a bad place. Who knows. Just trust him. He knows what he’s doing.