Friday 5th February

| BY Paul Toner

Kiko Kostadinov: Menswear AW21

Where Kiko Kostadinov succeeds is his ability to bulldoze a myriad of references into one another under a singular, cohesive vision. Dropping his AW21 men’s collection today through a virtual catwalk simulation, the Bulgarian designer noted everything from Christopher Priest’s 1977 sci-fi flick A Dream of Wessex, to the concepts of the late writer and renowned cultural theorist Mark Fisher, as references.

It’s all part of Kostadinov’s exploration of Hauntology; the ghostly return of elements from the past. His approach is totally non-linear, meaning many of the round-shouldered, futuristic jackets, or innovative trousers, you see here were actually inspired by classical dressmaking techniques. It’s a glitchy world where bouclé peacoats walk alongside utilitarian nylon parkas, and trousers that peel over – inspired by gardening aprons. The designer was set on dismantling archetypes. Whether it be elevating the cricket sweater, or the classic, crinkly flight jacket, these are essentially uniform, but now designed to be worn wherever, doing whatever. Very à la Mode in the age of wearing your best get-up to sit on Zoom with your mates on a Saturday night.

The show was 30 complete looks, however, through Kostadinov’s virtual platform, you can go back and see an additional 60 – all styled differently. It’s pedal to the metal in Kostadinov’s world. Go big or go home.

Photography courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov.