Monday 12th June

| BY Jack Moss

Kiko Kostadinov: Menswear SS18

Points of this reminded me of early Raf. Always a good sign. It was the tailoring – lean and minimal, almost obsessively discreet, that, on closer inspection, was underscored with detailed that spoke of something darker, more sinister. Here, it was the blazers that puckered up the back and fastened with press studs, or were cut on the bias, some concealing pockets, or those flashes of lime green that lurked beneath. The extra sleeves around the waist that acted as the fastening – or, more overtly sinister, a pair of tights on the head. Always does the job. But that was the intention of this – Kiko beginning this collection thinking about our obsession with evil – the way we consume murder in podcasts and TV shows – and how that has come to dominate the way we see consciousness in reality, fiction and fantasy.

Here, he took that and played with it – creating this surreal drama about, in his words, “murderous transgression” – clothing that ricocheted between that restrained uniform-like tailoring (his character at day) or clothing with a more “sinister function,” (his character at night). That said – strip it all back and take it piece by piece, and you’ll find that this wasn’t just concept. There were great pieces, ready to wear – body, uniform like jackets, stand-collar shirts, a great trouser with the pockets turned upwards. Nods of approvement must finally go to those trainers, a collaboration with Asics, which were so good that I ran out of space on my phone taking pictures of them.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans