Thursday 8th July

| BY Paul Toner

Kiko Kostadinov: Menswear SS22

The London-based Kiko Kostadinov has the potential to become a cult-designer. You might say he’s already got there. His clever designs, which often come informed by exhibitions and artistic movements, are worth geeking over. Yet, on the surface, he creates great, great clothes. It can be as simple as that. 

Since founding his namesake label in 2016, he has blended sportswear and workwear with tailoring under one, distinct design lexicon, fashioning a retro-futuristic aesthetic which is part of the designer’s exploration of Hauntology: the ghostly return of elements from the past. 

This season follows a more introspective narrative for Kostadinov, inspired by his longing for freedom after being locked down in North London for most of the year. He says the collection is based on “layered memories, then questioning movement of people. Not only visually but mentally. Relocating to new destinations that provides better opportunities, adapting to new environments.”

His technical jackets, relaxed trousers and striped jumpers with swooping necklines were inspired by “Bulgerian artists that left the country and didn’t really connect back”, in particular Nikolay Diulgheroff, whose geometric works informed warped tailoring looks and spike pocketed gilets. Viewers can discover the collection through an immersive walk-through video, which ventures through a deserted Brixton Market, with models sporting lacey shirts, shredded shorts, braided leather trainers and supersized hobo bags.

Photography courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov.