Friday 24th June

| BY Dominic Cadogan

Kolor: Menswear SS17

What is very important is that the clothes have hidden details that are not part of the styling,” said Junichi Abe backstage after his KOLOR spring 2017 show. We were going to writer menswear show – but who does those anymore? Colour had plenty of women walking amongst the boys, all dressed in Abe’s twisted takes on sportswear, this time inspired by journeys around the world, the favourite subject of the spring collection. Is everyone getting Airmails we aren’t? Need to check with BA. But anyhow, the detailing stuff didn’t show on the catwalk – because it couldn’t. Backstage, Abe was manhandling his creations, turning them inside out, motioning for us all to join in in stroking, pawing and admiring the inside, not the outside. The sort of stuff that makes the people who buy and wear these clothes go absolutely gaga. This season? No exception.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans