Friday 7th June

| BY Paul Toner

London Fashion Week Men’s Is Kicking Off – These Are 10 Things You Need to Know About This Season


Photograph by Markn

It’s that time of year again. Dig out your rarest pair of Cottweiler trackies, or the baggiest Martine Rose sweatshirt you own – London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 is upon us. A time to say hello to some fresh emerging talent going it alone, and a big welcome back to some familiar faces making their return to the Big Smoke. As more and more names barge their way onto the schedule, it’s hard to keep up with it all. To keep youre mind at ease, we’ve prepared a quick rundown of all the happenings over the next few days that have us eager for the weekend to commence:

1. We’re Back in East 

The 14th edition of LFWM will once again be held at Truman Brewery, where alongside the main showcase of British Fashion Council, you will be able to find the designer showrooms and the DiscoveryLab, the backdrop of the next chapter of Bianca Saunder’s tender exploration of black masculinity, coming this Sunday evening.

2. Kiko Kostadinov Kicks it Off

Kiko Kostadinov’s ghoulish army of hairy creatures left quite the mark back at January’s AW19 shows – so much so he’s been chosen to kick the whole shebang off tomorrow evening. Ever since completing his MA at Central Saint Martins back in 2016, Kostadinov has become quite a master of his craft, producing crafty outerwear and morphing classic tailoring with sporty nylons – the perfect fit to set the tone for the events ahead.

3. Saul Nash makes a Fashion East debut 

We can always count on Fashion East as a breath of fresh air within the intensive fashion week schedule. This time around, Mowalola and Robyn Lynch return for their sophomore performance – joined by newcomer Saul Nash, whose collision of dance and technical sportswear design has had us craving more ever since his LFW debut back in January. Certain members of the Ten Towers are practically pirouetting with excitement.

Kiko Kostadinov AW19; photograph by Jason-Lloyd Evans.

4. Alexander McQueen arrives for a homecoming tour 

Hoorah! McQueen is finally back in London. The brazen romanticism of Sarah Burton’s work often explores her Northern roots, in particular the industrial heartlands which surrounded Macclesfield, the place where she grew up. So is there a better place to stage McQueen’s SS20 collection than home turf? We think not.

5. Welcome the Debutantes

One thing we can count on each London Fashion Week is a whole  batch of newcomers, imprinting their distinct design vision across the capital. Two names we are particularly giddy about this time around are Stefan Cooke and Priya Ahluwalia, both of which are making their solo on-schedule debuts this season. What to expect? A slender chorus of clever tailoring curtesy from Cooke, and an array of technicolored Ahluwalia staples, underpinned with an eco-conscience design motive.

6. What’s a fashion week without a glass of bubbly?

What gets us through the twelve-hour days darting every corner of the city to attend shows, is the drink promised at the end of the day. And this time around the fashion pack is in for a treat. Kiko is throwing a rave in a warehouse dotted in Tottenham Hale, Machine-A and Zilver have planned a bash in Shoreditch, and GQ and Browns have teamed up for a night of epic proportions. Psst.. We hear Super Magazine and Contact Agency are holding a little something something off-schedule tonight at The Edition as well – if you’re names not down, you’re not coming in.

7. Lambert and Hodges continue their magic 

One pairing we look forward to each menswear season is Liam Hodges and Ten Men’s very own Senior Fashion Editor at Large, Harry Lambert. Hodges’ Miami Vice-esque, camped-up take on streetwear classics have gained fanboy approval from the kids who prowl the streets of Soho, flexing their finest fits. Lambert styles the clothes perfectly, finding that key balance between channeling 1990s teenage nostalgia, yet making it fit for the contemporary man.

8. Martine Rose is back again!

She’s back from Ayia Napa, and ready to make her return to the fashion week schedule. Rose’s last fashion week appearance, SS19’s ‘Love Letter To London’, solidified her as the queen of LFWM. The collection capturing a critical era in London’s raving history, when the spirit of London’s dance-floors was shifting – a time when D&B switched to Garage and the kids who hit the clubs had to dress smart to get in. No menswear designer knows inner-city London like Martine, we’re ecstatic that she’s back.


Martine Rose SS19, Photograph by Jason-Lloyd Evans.

9. BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund winner will be announced

This year’s nominees for the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund represent both the diversity of London’s design talent, and how no two designer’s vision is alike. The likes of Cottweiler, Wales Bonner and Edward Crutchley are all in the running to win for a £150,000 grant, with the winner announced on the Monday – popcorn at the ready.

10. Here, there and everywhere

This season in particular, London’s menswear talent will have the fashion pack visiting the deepest corners of the city for their collections. Most notable mentions are A-Cold-Wall *, who will be showcasing their menacing take on streetwear at Surrey Quays music venue Printworks. Kiko Kostadinov is also branching out, debuting his SS20 offering within the brutalist Barbican structure. The most *extra* location however comes curtesy of Mr Charles Jeffrey, who is heading to the British Library – we pray his performance piece doesn’t involve ripping up books like it did last season…

London Fashion Week Men’s Spring/ Summer 2020 is taking place from today, June 7th, until Monday, June 8th. Follow LFWM via our Instagram stories at @10menmagazine.

@10menmagazine