Saturday 10th June

| BY Jack Moss

Liam Hodges: Menswear SS18

“Make some noise,” said Liam Hodges. Well, his press release did. Which we’re aware may be a lazy way to begin a review but it’s important. So what does noise mean, exactly? Well, the noise of everyday life. Audio, media, political, visual. Memes. That feed of information that comes to you in an endless stream through your phone and computer screen. Probably where you are reading this now. “Fuck that noise,” says Liam. In the clothes, this way of thinking was represented by a screaming bear. A screaming bear, eh? Not a gay-uendo – rather, an actual screaming bear. Like a teddy bear, but screaming. That bear was stitched on jumpers, and appeared throughout, closing the show in real-life human-sized form. Liam described it as Munch’s Scream for a generation that just want to be cute – but still have teeth.

And, on the subject – would it be wrong to call the clothes themselves cute? Not in the “aww” sense, rather the sense of “that’s so cute I want to wear it.” Because this was that brill riff of streetwear that is Liam’s trademark – a collage of references from grime to zine culture, car modding to British folklore – pieced together DIY style into patchwork tracksuiting, printed denim workwear, coloured shirts tucked into roomy denim, a collaboration with FILA on colour-block jersey. There was even a bit of a nod to the great outdoors – sleeveless hunting-style jackets, deerstalker hats. If it sounds a lot, it was – he calls it a hyper-hybrid – but a muted colour palette brought it together – dark yellow and washed out khaki, oranges and chambrays. Was this a nod to a more grown up Liam? Possibly. “I’m trying to make clothes that I want to wear when I’m older rather than people who are older are wearing now,” Liam reasoned. We can’t think of much we’d like to wear more when we’re old and fetid. Or just now. We can wear it with our Tena ladies.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans