Tuesday 23rd March

| BY Paul Toner

Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Menswear AW21

As countries across the globe begrudgingly welcome the one year mark since the world went into lockdown, the idea of ‘seasonal’ fashion feels more outdated now than ever before – and Ludovic de Saint Sernin agrees. “We always rush into things and sometimes you do a collection and the next one is totally different,” sighs the designer on a Zoom call.

His e-boy spring/summer collection was an ode to his sex-positive online community, who pose in their LdSS eyelet briefs and barely-there fashions across Instagram and TikTok. Six months later and he wasn’t done with exploring the concept, wanting to take it down a sexier, darker route for winter when (fingers crossed) we can have some proper IRL experiences. None of that rule-of-six crap. “I’m kind of looking at the [collection] as if it was a really good show and the fans made a petition and won another season,” he says. “This is the perfect wardrobe for you to finally be able to be free and go out. Whether it’s to go to a friend’s dinner or a party or a date or rave or a hookup – whatever it is!”

Ludovic wanted to flex his chops and show the brand’s growth in terms of technical ability this season. A Swarovski-laden tartan miniskirt in orange, black and sky blue, took two months to make – worn alongside equally as sparkly checkerboard crop tops and skinny scarves. Suits are gentle and made of silk and none of the pieces come lined, meaning they’re body-skimming and light-as-air. “When we’re going to finally be able to go out, you’ll just want to show up. You’re not going to be hiding under a coat,” he affirms. (Although, he has made a terrific leather jacket and woollen overcoat, for those looking for some LdSS outerwear.)

This season sees Ludovic also attempt to establish – “slowly but surely” – who the LdSS girl is. He counts Dua Lipa and Lous and the Yakuza as part of his growing women’s clientele, but says he wants to get the “everyday girl” in his garb now as well. Not like his business needs any help. Throughout lockdown, his fans have been spending. Whether that’s something small, like a pair of briefs or a necklace, or at the opposite end, where a client in Australia drops thousands upon thousands on custom LdSS each season. “Luckily, a lot of my pieces are very much something that you want to wear, not just for other people to see, but just for yourself too,” he says. It starts with an unshakable confidence that comes from within.

Photography by Amit Israeli.