Wednesday 23rd June

| BY Paul Toner

Magliano: Menswear SS22

Luca Magliano is shaping up to be one of Milan’s most exciting menswear designers. The label, founded in 2016, has thrived through the pandemic, creating cinematic fashion films that could make anyone forget their longing for the catwalk, even just for a few minutes. The designer’s latest collection is directly spurred from his pent-up energy after being locked inside for over a year. “The starting point was the need to liberate rage in an energetic, creative way,” explains the designer.

Looking to Hippocrates’ Humoral Theory –  which assumes the existence of four human humours: Melancholic, Sanguine, Phlegmatic and Choleric – the designer wasn’t interested in the ancient theory itself, “but in the way it allows me to project my inner feelings on the collection, a wide range of emotions that culminate in anger”, he says. The designer dove headlong into traditional workwear, inspired by actual pieces workers have worn in Italian factories for decades. “Many of the garments have been realised with pre-existing surplus materials,” adds Magliano. “From this season, upcycling becomes even more important.”

A sense of frustration feeds directly into the collection’s film, which sees Magliano’s gang power walk against the mighty force of giant fans, soundtracked by the mighty skills of 12-year-old drummer Edoardo Lovazzi. It made for some proper enjoyable viewing, cementing Magliano as a name to remember.

Photography courtesy of Magliano.