Sunday 13th January

| BY Richard Gray

Marni: Menswear AW19

Under the tenure of designer Francesco Risso, Marni Menswear has a special place in the minds of the fashion press and in the wardrobes of those who buy it. Within a relatively short period of time, Risso has found his “look”. Fusing the worlds of art and architecture with modern culture, his clothes have a directional aesthetic, which speaks directly to the clever dresser. The clothes are logo-free and made using impeccable fabrics; they are thoughtful, considered yet grounded in reality. Retailers talk of “the perfect pant” and the jackets – normally soft-shouldered and boxy – have an ease, that speaks to a busy super-cool man. And with his usual added punch of graphic prints and block colours, the clothes sell well online.

For autumn, more great pants and “comfort fit” flare-y, over-dyed jeans. These were worn with teddy-bear-alike big coats and more of those soft-shouldered jackets – all retail gold – and all of which, referenced kicking out time at the Haçienda. Silk printed pants spoke to old MTV logos and there was a huge dollop of Kurt Cobain. The cardigans of the half-man half-mohair grunge god got the Risso treatment. Great! And those, frankly, mental muppet-like fake fur mittens with the stuck on goggle eyes were excellent. Completely unrealistic but excellent. Great show.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.