Off-Schedule – These Five Menswear Brands Are Doing Things Their Own Way
Pyer Moss SS19; photo by Angela Weiss for Getty
London Fashion Week Men’s has had a second coming in recent years. Once skipped by major fashion editors, it has morphed into a four-day fashion frenzy. Overflowing with emerging designers, LFWM has become known for its zeitgeist-savvy cuts that are as street centric as they are innovative. Sportswear codes and intricate tailoring techniques stand toe-to-toe with gender-bending design outlooks – each collection is distinct, no two carrying the same message. However, it seems like the goals of many young designers have shifted. Showing their collections at one of the four fashion capitals is not always a priority, and some of the most exciting names emerging into the industry are proving there’s an alternative way of doing it.
You won’t find these five at the men’s fashion circuit this season, but you should definitely know about what they’re doing.
If you have taken a trip down to the basement of Dover Street Market in recent months, your gaze has likely been diverted to the section displaying the work of Doublet. Winner of last year’s LVMH Prize, designer Masayuki Ino douses traditional sportswear silhouettes in brash prints, playful patches and acidic hues. His shirts fit boxy, made out of a 3D printed polyvinyl that swiftly bring the palm trees and tigers that occupy them, to life. Doublet is blazon in colour and the perfect attire for some unashamed peacocking in front of Truman Brewery this weekend.
Doublet wins 2018 LVMH Prize; photograph by Benoit Peverelli
Who couldn’t love military wear after watching Rihanna’s Hard video back in 2009? MYAR is the sustainable brand ready for battle: upcycling World War 2 military garments into contemporary gems. Even the anagram title says it all – MYAR — ARMY. The trousers are fantastic, available in a relaxed fit or a tapered leg. Varying Camouflage prints are clashed and doused in subtle shades of blue and green. Wear MYAR during this LFWM and your fashion rival won’t dear give you the side eye.
What came first: the dolphin, the clownfish or the hat made from a tower of deflated basketballs? Designer’s Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh are propelling up-cycling to an entirely different stratosphere. The duo won the 2018 Hyerés prize and now hold the helm at Nina Ricci, famed for their ability to cross-pollinate Caribbean cultural references into designs which are larger than life. Caps are worn ten at a time, shirts are so large they drip around the frame of the wearer. There are pants appliquéd with fishing nets, and vests made from plastic bags – Botter is a carefully considered visual chaos.
Botter AW19; photograph by David Paige
Headed by LVMH prize winner Vejas Kruszewski, Pihakapi aim to both modernise and re-contextualize leatherwear for the modern consumer. Described as a “leather workshop for the future,” Pihakapi elevates classic leather jackets and trousers with subtle, clever twists. Tiny leather spikes line the seams of jackets, whilst leather belts that extend down the leg resemble a cowboy’s gun holster. The clothes themselves arn’t loud, with Pihakapi working in a mostly muted palette. The appeal lies in the subtle intricacies and Kruszewski’s attention to detail.
Pihakapi SS18; photograph by Camille Vivier
We would be lying if we said we didn’t miss Pyer Moss on the menswear schedule, or any other schedule as a matter of fact. Winner of last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has gathered an ardent of fashion fans through his wearable designs that are underpinned with a celebration of blackness. In his time away from NYFW, Jean-Raymond has created a collection with Reebok and dressed some of the brightest talents in music, fashion and film. Just take a look at Monday night’s CFDA awards, where the likes of A$AP Ferg, Joan Smalls and activist Deray McKesson all dazzled in pastel leather and denim two-pieces, all carrying the signature of Pyer Moss. Will Pyer Moss ever return to NYFW? Who knows, but in the mean time, there’s plenty of their pieces to indulge in, shop, wear…
Pyer Moss Collection II; photograph by Kerry Jean-Raymond & Amandla Baraka