Sunday 18th June

| BY Jack Moss

Neil Barrett Shows His SS18 Men’s And Womenswear In Milan

Fashion loves mining the 90s for those grunge-y, Kurt Cobain references, less so for the minimalism that also came up in the era. But it was the latter that Neil Barrett said was behind his SS18 collection, the third part of a trilogy about his young life – the first looking at the 1970s, then the 1980s, and now the 1990s. Specifically, the middle of the decade. So I want to call this a bit boy racer. A bit geezer. Something about a go-faster stripe and bucket hat says as such. But here, those clothes were cut super sharp, elevating it and making it super super sleek – an amazing white coat was worn with nothing beneath, blazers and sweaters has clean bonded silver stripes, the same stripe also sitting around the cuffs of trousers (those trousers falling mid calf), boxy shirting, clean-lined Harrington jackets. Plenty of colour too – zingy reds, military greens, optic white, mottled blues, clean navies. The girls, who joined the boys on the catwalk for a second season, had a sexiness to them – a parade perfectly cut LBDs, which pulled away to reveal the skin beneath in patches, or were offset with sheer layers. But sexiness is not achieved in LBDs alone (though perhaps one Editrix-in-Chief of ours may beg to differ) – there’s also something very sexy about a woman in big, mannish tailoring, a white shirt and not much else. Which Neil also proposed for the season. But what made this so strong was it’s cohesiveness. It made sense – it followed through. And that’s what drives him season after season – the pursuit of perfection. And he’s well on his way.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans