Wednesday 19th August

| BY Paul Toner

Nicomede: Menswear SS21

Since Nicomede Talavera made his triumphant return to the world of fashion last summer – after a four-year hiatus from the industry – the designer has been doing things on his own terms. Ditching the glistening lights of London Fashion Week completely, Talavera now debuts his collections (dubbed ‘Episodes’ opposed to your regular seasons) through lookbooks, working with a cohort of on-going collaborators including photographer Tom Sloan and 10 family member, stylist Harry Lambert. For Episode 3, titled Gentlemen of the Universe, the designer adds collage artist Patrick Waugh into the mix, who has created magazine-like tear-aways where the models pose in front of gigantic crystals. A different sort of mineral – well, it’s technically a rock – plays a particular influence throughout the collection. Marble patterns douse slouched trousers, kimono-style jackets and three-quarter-length shorts dotted with loads of nifty pockets. Talavera grew up watching his dad reconstruct and assemble marble lamp stands, and became enamoured with the patterns that bloom inside.

Throughout, fabrics both clash and harmonise with one another. Louche tailoring made from black wool comes draped with angular collars made from satin; equipped with a workswear-inspired pen pocket. Pretty handy, if you ask us. Ace trackies are made in shiny nylons and matte purple iterations, spliced at the knee with grey and black panels and finished with an apron-like flap at the waistline. From waistcoats inspired by racing drivers to bomber jackets which drape into 1950s couture proportion, Nicomede Talavera is really catering for all sorts of gentlemen in this universe. Luckily, with him behind the scissors, they’re in safe hands.

Lookbook photography by Tom Sloan, Styled by Harry Lambert and Collages by Patrick Waugh. Exclusive backstage imagery by Nicomede Talavera.

@_nicomede