Nicomede: Menswear SS22
Nicomede Talavera is London’s silent success story. Whilst brands across the board have had to adapt in lieu of the catwalk, Talavera has long ditched the “traditional” ways of doing things. Since returning to the fashion industry in 2019 after a five-year hiatus, Talavera has been releasing collections in a series of Episodes, opposed to traditional seasons – premiered through lookbooks created alongside a series of on-going collaborators.
His fourth outing, dubbed Guardians, continues the designer’s exploration of traditional menswear codes made with fantastic flourishes. With each collection, the designer looks through the lens of brotherhood for inspiration. “Each season plays off the story of boys who lift each other up in unity,” says the designer. “I had the story in mind of boys who protect each other, a modern-day tribe. It made me think of what their uniform would be and how it would utilise them for strength.”
The designer looked to fencing uniforms and militant wear throughout, imagining the garments linking with one another like the men who would wear such pieces in the brotherhood. “There is a strong sense of loyalty,” adds Talavera, who became fascinated with such uniforms for their protective qualities – infused with the quintessential Nicomede cut and silhouette, informed by 1950s women’s couture, functional sportswear, and historical dress.
This season also sees the designer unite with a series of collaborators, including headwear with James Pink Studio, knitwear with Kepler and tchotchke-like jewellery with Ekaterina Pronina; Televera’s former CSM MA classmate. “It’s been a very rewarding process. Especially when you get to collaborate with friends,” says the designer. “Each collaboration has an artisanal touch which I find very beautiful and thoughtful.”
Talavera always has one eye on the future, and is already looking forward to unveiling Episode Five at the beginning of next year. He’s also got an e-commerce site in the works, where this collection, alongside special capsules, will be able to be purchased straight from the brand. Keep your eye on Talavera, he’s not a name to sleep on.
Photography Takahito Sasaki and Jennifer Sasaki. BTS photography courtesy of Nicomede.