Monday 11th January

| BY Jack Moss

PIETER: AW16 Menswear

Fetish. But like, subtle fetish. A bit like those men who wears women’s knickers under their normal clothes. That’s what PIETER’s AW16 collection put us in mind off. Well, not the knickers part, it was all v masculine, but that same kind of subversiveness. The kink that lurks beneath. Apparently, it all began with a Robert Mapplethorpe image – one that “sees two men in a well-appointed living room: one stands, wearing a leather motorcycle jacket, trousers, hat, gloves and boots, while holding a chain connected to the leather collar of the seated subject, also entirely in leather.” Oo-er. But, apart from “cruise” and “HH” (high and horny apparently) found knitted across jumpers – this fetish isn’t in your face, obvious, but found in the details – the little buckles around the arms, little zips in the cuff and sleeve. “As with previous seasons, the PIETER man warrants a second look,” the press release says. So look a little closer, and you never know what you might find. Keep your eye on this one.

Photograph by Kris Mitchell